A few steps from Rome, between the Simbruini mountains and the Ernici mountains, we can find the small village of Affile. The city center overlooks a series of hills dominated by vineyards, making Affile the homeland of Cesanese wine. The name Cesanese itself testifies to the antiquity of the vine and tells a piece of history, which derives from the Latin cesae: places with cut trees.
The pride of the place is the Cesanese DOP wine, already known and loved by the ancient Romans and the Popes. The inhabitants have handed down the tradition of wine over the centuries, in fact, there are many farmers who carry it forward out of passion, as well as professional producers who have recovered it in recent decades by making it a profession.
Some affilane cellars offer, upon reservation, the unique possibility of visiting the premises and the vineyards, to illustrate the production of the wine from the vineyard to the bottle and to have a few glasses tasted. An excellent opportunity to spend days outdoors and have unique and instructive experiences!
Walking through the streets and the surrounding countryside you will not only find yourself immersed in nature, but you will also be able to experience the local wine and gastronomy, such as the delicious wine donuts, which go perfectly with Cesanese and can be found in traditional ovens of the country.
The historic center of the town, then, allows you to feel like you are in a medieval village. The oldest part of the village is well preserved (and still inhabited!) and bears witness to the long history of the village thanks to small and large details.
Taking a walk through this village you can discover some churches and chapels that are known as early as the year 1000, such as the Church of Santa Maria, which has been part of the landscape for more than a millennium, and even a cistern from the Roman era!
If you are particularly lucky, you may also be able to visit the Church of San Pietro, which is located in the oldest and most characteristic cemetery of the town.
Spirituality is central to Affile, in fact it is an obligatory stop on the journey of San Benedetto, who performed his first miracle right in an alley of the village.
In the Church of San Pietro there are beautiful frescoes depicting the miracle of San Benedetto that date back to the 15th century and recall this milestone of Christianity.
Experiences for a tourist
There is no particular time of the year to visit Affile and enjoy what this town can offer, but you should go there during the traditional festivals and fairs, so that you can experience the beauty of the village in the heat of the party.
A typical festival of the place, which has been taking place for many years now, is that of the Fallone, which usually takes place between October and November. Although the name may seem a little equivocal, the fallone is a typical product of the Affilana peasant tradition: it is a delicious bread prepared from a mixture of water and corn flour, seasoned with vegetables or sausages, which was originally cooked in fireplace or in the wood-burning oven.
In the summer you could visit Affile on the occasion of AFFILando il Gusto, an event that has been promoting the typical local products for some years now. Whether you are a lover of Italian food and wine or you simply want to spend a nice evening tasting excellent wines and excellent food, you absolutely must drop by.
In short: why miss the opportunity to visit a village that offers history, nature and gastronomy? Maybe just on the occasion of the village festivals and fairs.
Photos of the frescoes in the Church of San Pietro and Santa Maria by Paolo Sbraga for ethea.org
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