In Civita di Bagnoregio, on the first Sunday of June and on the second Sunday of September there is the Tonna, a characteristic and ancient race of jockeys on donkeys that recalls the Palio of Siena.
La Tonna is certainly one of the most awaited events of Tuscia, an event that recalls ancient traditions and a profound link between man and nature.
In the past, donkeys were the only means of transport to reach Civita and are celebrated with this event.
La Tonna is the local name which identifies the path with a circular shape around the main square of Civita di Bagnoregio: Piazza di San Donato.
The Palio is a banner that depicts the patron saint of the event and is painted every year by a local artist.
According to the rules of the Palio della Tonna the jockeys must make three rounds of Piazza San Donato (the beating heart of the “City that Dies”) in a circle, hence the name of the round square, or “tonna” in the local dialect, and then face each other in a series of races that will select the best to compete in the final.
Between incitements and laughter, the stubborn little donkeys play their part, huddling and backing away, often putting jockeys in trouble who are trying to encourage their stubborn “comrades” to do their best to finish the race, in an attempt to be victorious.
The occasion of the festival is certainly also an opportunity to visit one of the most charming villages of Lazio, surrounded by huge natural walls generated by the slow and inexorable wear by atmospheric agents that give life to a show of great uniqueness, known as “bridges”, and clearly visible looking out from the eastern cliff.
The event gives Civita di Bagnoregio that touch of liveliness in its natural daily quiet.
For the occasion, there is also a feast in the square with music and food and wine stands that already brighten the day for visitors in the morning.
All this in a cheerful, healthy competition, in a setting of a crowd that unites the local residents with tourists and those who return to the town for the event.
Between one event and the next it is strongly recommended to move away from the “chaos” of the events to discover and contemplate the silences and the still face of the village, with its heritage of harsh and surprising beauty. Today Civita di Bagnoregio is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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